BBC crank support installation

The Ken Lowe Race Cars BBC crank support mounts to the four lower front holes on the engine block. If you have an engine mount going there then you can shorten the side mount plates by the thickness of the engine mounts and proceed with the installation. The shortening procedure must be done in a milling machine and most machine shops can handle this for you. If you want KLRC to do this we will be glad to do this for you. The cranks support kit can be ordered with short side plates as well.

To insure you get a product that fits and works during our quality control every thread and diminution has been checked. Every crank support kit has been assembled on an engine before it was boxed. We have made every effort to insure that you get a high quality product but if you have any problems be sure to call us and let us know.

The left and the right side supports are different hole centres as are the holes in the block. The sides are NOT interchangeable. As you are sitting in the drivers seat of the vehicle the left side of the engine is on your left-(not as you are facing the engine). Each side plate is marked L or R to designate which side of the engine it mounts on.

Preparation:

A. Use a 7/16-unc tap and clean the threads on the front of the block that the crank support studs will thread into.

B. The crank "nose" or snout will have to be drilled and threaded for 3/4 unf for the spindle bolt to thread into. Some customers have turned the 3/4" bolt down and threaded the bolt to 1/2" unf and used it this way instead of drilling and tapping the crankshaft. This is not recommended as you will lose a lot of the strength of the KLRC crank support by doing this.

C. Assemble the clamp rings on the front support plate. The clamp ring with the through holes goes on the front of the front support plate with the 1/4" unc x 1" bolts passing through the clamp ring and through the front support plate and into the threaded clamp ring. It is a good idea to use anti seize on these threads into the aluminium clamp rings. It is a good idea to use anti seize on any threads into aluminium.

Installation:

1. Please refer to the attached drawing. Install surface "A" against the outside of the crankshaft blower hub. Be certain surface "C" clears the end of the crankshaft.

2. Insert the bearing over the diameter "B" and install grade 8 3/4" unf . Use red locktite and torque to 100 foot pounds. If a smaller bolt is used reduce the torque.

3. Using a dial indicator check the "run out" on the bearing while rotating the crankshaft. If the run out exceeds .005" then tap lightly to correct a few thousands; if the spindle bearing still has run out , then check surface "A" to see that it is seated on the blower drive hub. Check hub to insure the mating surface is smooth and true. Check that surface is not hitting the crankshaft.

Surface "A" is turned between centre's in one set up with the bearing surface on the opposite end. If the bearing still runs out it is probably that the crank hub is marred on its face, causing misalignment or that surface "C" is hitting the crankshaft. SURFACE "C'' SHOULD NOT HIT THE CRANKSHAFT !. This can be a problem with "home made" hubs that are not made to the correct length.

4. After the bearing is trued, install the four 7/16" studs in the engine block The thread holes in the block should have been cleaned and the thread chased. First thread the studs into the block to check the fit. The studs should thread all the way into the block up to where the bottom of the stud hits the bottom of the hole or the thread runs out on the stud. You should NOT have to force the studs into the block or pull them in with a tool. Once the studs will thread into the block by hand remove them and use blue locktight (262) or equivalent to hold the studs in place. Install the studs by hand until they bottom out and then back them out 1/4" turn.

5. Put the side plates on the studs installing the left side plate on the left side of the engine (odd cylinder side) and the right side plate on the right side (even cylinder side).

6. Put the front plate on the studs with the logo facing out and install the 7/16" flat washers provided. Install the 7/16 unf nuts provided torque them to 45 foot pounds

7. Now you can tighten the clamp ring bolts to 120 inch pounds. With the spindle installed with no run out the clamp rings will now be locked on the crankshaft centre line. To remove the crankshaft support for engine service just loosen and remove the 7/16" mounting nuts and remove the front plate. You do not have to reset the clamp ring each time. This is the extra value in a KLRC crank support as it does the job of supporting the front of the crankshaft and removes easily for servicing and reinstalls quickly not requiring resetting.. If you bore the tunnel of the engine block all you have to do is reset the spindle and reset the clamp rings. It is just that easy !

NOTE: It is a good idea to check the torque on the studs and the centre bolt after every pass until you are sure nothing is moving. Then it is still a good idea to check it at least after every race

Torque Settings:
3/4" Main centre bolt 100 foot pounds
7/16" Mount bolts 45 foot pounds
1/4" Clamp bolts 120 inch pounds

Blower drive hubs

KLRC blower hubs are machined from tough 4140 steel and honed for a correct fit. The keyways cut correctly and comes with instructions for fitting the key so the key and the hub will fit properly

36335-01100 Hub 4140 steel SBC
36335-01200 Hub 4140 steel BBC
36335-01201 Hub 4140 steel BBC counterweighted
36335-01300 Hub 4140 steel 392, 426
36335-01500 Hub 4140 steel 351CWF
36335-99900 Hub 4140 steel blank

36600-63750 Timing ring 6.375 DIA (not installed) fits on blower hub so you can mark for the TDC and other marks. It makes the diameter large enough so your timing can be accurate.. Comes with lightning holes and pilot holes for magnets for computer pick ups if you need them.

Installed free if you order one when you order your blower drive hub

36720-10437 Blower stud set of 8 studs and nuts (anodised aluminium)

Burst Panels & kits

36525-19000 Burst panel complete kit with burst plate
36525-19010 Burst panel replacement
36525-19020 Burst panel clamp ring
36525-19030 Burst panel weld ring
36525-19040 Burst panel inner plate
36525-19100 Burst panel deflector plate kit
36525-19110 Burst panel deflector plate stands 5/16 x .058 chrome moly x .75

LOWE FUEL INJECTION SYSTEMS 99253-00001

Why flow my fuel system ?

Save parts carnage, get on top of the tune up quicker, start with a tuneable fuel system are only a few of the reasons why to flow your fuel system Five different fuel pumps of the same brand and size will all flow slightly different volume and lose different amounts of volume when the pressure in the system gets up high. An accurate flow bench will tell you exactly how much fuel you are giving your engine. If your car is running in top form then you need to know what amount of fuel your engine is getting throughout the entire rpm range. Should your fuel pump decide to wear out (they do) and you put a new one on is it better or worse than what you had. A common situation is that some one will start racing and have a slightly rich fuel curve because everyone should start "safe" and find their tune up. Over the period of many races they sneak up on the tune up slowly and safely and get the car running real well. What has happened is while they were sneaking up on the main jet (taking some fuel away) the pump was wearing slightly as well taking some fuel away as well. Eventually the fuel pump fails and you have to put a new one on. If you just put a new fuel pump on the engine at this stage the car would slow down and would be difficult to find out why. Would in be better to know exactly how much fuel you were putting in the engine at each RPM step so you could duplicate this any time that you want? If your car is not running in top form a flow bench can give you a place to start your "tune up". Either way you have solid numbers with which to make future changes or a base line to start with. Are you afraid someone will steal your top performing "tune up" if you send the system to LOWE Fuel Injection Systems? We pledge confidentiality, but that aside when we get your fuel system to run we take all your components, set them up on the bench and perform a series of tests. Usually the top teams will tell you what tests to perform in detail. We don't know which test they are actually using on a particular run. Besides we have found that the same fuel system on two different cars will result in two different performances due to other conditions such as clutch, tire, gear and launch rpm, to name a few. If a team is just getting started or has never had their system on a flow bench then we can help with a series of practical tests. For example we will base line the fuel system as they are running it now providing fuel volume numbers up and down the range then try a series of jets for the base line, then move the high speed pressures up and down to show exactly what changes effect the system and provide precise fuel volume numbers, so when you make a change at the race track you KNOW what your engine is getting .. it can surprise you. Some changes you make you will think you are making big changes and it changes very little if any at all. This is information that you must have to find your way quickly to a fast tune up.

Who is KEN LOWE FUEL SYSTEMS ?

I have built 5 fuel flow benches in the last 20 years. The first fuel flow bench was not very accurate and what it demonstrated to me was how very important good data was. You cannot cut corners on the instruments, bad data is worse than no data at all. It is like building an engine with a tape measure and not a micrometer. You must know exactly how much fuel volume you are flowing at each step of the curve. Anything else is just not good enough. .I have spent over $10,000.00 dollars on having the best most accurate instrument quality laboratory grade measuring devices that will read the flow information but do not affect the flow or pressure in the system. This will represent exactly what you will have on the car while it is racing. Some flow benches only use dead weight poppet type flow meters. These may be accurate (or not) but they are analogue and do not have a digital read out. More significantly the poppet that floats on the stream of fluid passing by it causes internal system pressure that is not present on the race car during a race and therefore creates an artificial environment in the fuel system altering the flow and pressure numbers from the actual race configuration. The can alter the system pressure by as much as 30 psi and this is 30 psi restriction that does not exist in your race car while it is racing. The second and third were constant upgrades of hardware and more accurate data collection. The fourth flow bench was the best one I had ever built. It had the best, most accurate data collection and could perform repeatable tests throughout a long test day. This flow bench was tested and compared to Walt Austins flow bench in the USA. I took a fuel pump and ran it on their bench then took the same fuel pump and ran it on our bench and got identical results. Now, when I say 13.35 gpm that is what it is. No more no less. As another point of reference we have compared our flow bench flow and pressure numbers to a Race pack on board computer flow and pressure numbers and got a match there as well. The reason I sold that bench hardware is that it wouldn't run up to speed with the 50 cycle over here and I had some ideas for re-con figuring the hardware to make the bench easier to operate. This is important when you spend days in front of it. I brought all the data collection instruments from bench #4 with me so I still have all the same instruments here that I had over there. I have compared the flow numbers of the electronic flow metres to some of my old standard float flow meters to ensure the accuracy over here as well as to flow one of my fuel pumps (good old #2) on the bench here to compare with the flow numbers I got on the electronic digital flow meters in the USA. This ensures continuity of the data. Recently I did a piggy back test using our instruments and a new Race pack on board computer. After the test a comparison of the results were done and the data was perfect in almost every point of comparison and in the variances were less than .01 of a gallon per minute !! We have purchased a electronic computerised jet program to model new fuel flow curves simulations. This is very handy to "rough in" new ideas although we have found the mathematical presumptions inside the software don't always reflect real conditions and unless actually flowed to find the real volume and pressure numbers you will be operating with incorrect information. One example us by moving a poppet and jet (high speed) from the top of the pump to the back side of the barrel valve will change the fuel curve and software cannot calculate this, only a high accuracy wet flow bench can show you this difference. There are other conditions only a wet flow bench can show you as well.

If you have the most accurate flow bench possible how do you make it better?

We create devices that help us represent the actual operation environment the fuel system has to operate in. Example: If you have 100 psi fuel pressure spraying into a intake manifold and the manifold has 45 psi supercharger boost pressure then the fuel flow is based on fuel pressure of 55 psi not 100 psi, because the boost pressure is pushing against the fuel coming out the nozzle and this affects the flow to the engine but not the fuel pressure in the fuel system. We have a device on our flow bench that allows us to duplicate the intake manifold pressure in the fuel system and accurately represent the fuel flow that your engine really gets.

We continually push ourselves to get better. We want to keep the technical lead that we have. Our flow bench now gives us very accurate information and now we are computerising the data acquisition on the flow bench to give us a larger volume of information. Once the flow bench data acquisition is operational we can give the customer (you) more different combinations of main jets, pump sizers, high speed jets and nozzles. With this you can change your system at the track and know what you are flowing to the engine just by reviewing what main jet and high speed combination you have. Another feature of the computerisation is we can ask the flow bench to make a run for us by setting the starting rpm at one point and the finish rpm at another point and setting the ramp time from point to point. The flow bench will make the run starting at one rpm and finishing at the end rpm and do it within a specified amount of time. Example we can set the start rpm at 3000 rpm and the end rpm at 8500 rpm and set the ramp time at 2.2 seconds or 6.8 seconds, what ever amount of time we want to set the test for and the flow bench will make the test with those parameters. Why do you want to do this? We feel that the acceleration of the fuel in the system (especially high volume applications) can and will change the flow rates that the engine actually gets. Another benefit will be the ability to pick any 5 tests and graph them to a computer monitor review the curve and then load this information to a colour printer so you can visualise the difference from one curve to the next. There is no other flow bench in the world that has this capability.

What do you need to test the fuel system ?

On supercharged cars all I need is the hat with the nozzles, lines and barrel valve, the port nozzle lines, the pump and inlet fitting and the lines connecting the pump to the hat. The more you send me the more I can help if I see something that can be a problem. I do not need the blower manifold on a supercharged car. Although the blower manifold design can cause some problems as well, usually I can tell you how to test it at home. You won't believe how many "factory made" manifolds are not very good. On non supercharged stack type fuel injection I do need the manifold as on these the barrel valve is connected to this manifold and I need it all to be able to adjust it here. How long does it take to do ? Usually I can turn it around in a week but most time just before a big race we do get backed up some so please don't wait until then to get it done. Please call us though as we might be able to squeeze you in with a little overtime work here.

How do I ship it ?

Completely drain the fuel out! Take air and blow the system dry as no shipping company likes to deal with soggy boxes. Soggy boxes can fall apart and possibly lose some of your valuable fuel system. Wrap each item with bubble wrap and some clear tape. Once each item is wrapped find a box big enough for all the items to be packed in. I do not recommend using Styrofoam as a packing material as it flakes off and gets in EVERY fitting, hose and poppet and must be thoroughly cleaned before we can flow it. Pack the box TIGHTLY as you do not want the parts shifting around inside the box. Be sure to wrap the barrel valve in something soft to protect it and the linkage. Use large plastic bags, or trash bags to wrap the injector and components in to help keep them clean. The cavity or the inside of the injector hat is not a good place to ship the pump as it can move around and damage the nozzle holders. Be sure the parts can't move inside the box because if they can they will damage each other. Please include as much data about your car as possible as this helps us get your base line closer. If you need a flowed fuel injection data sheet call us and we will fax one to you. Note: Be sure to insure the shipment as things do get lost or damaged sometimes. Call us and tell us you are shipping it to us so we can expect it.

Running a race car with out flowing you fuel system is like walking through the forest in the dark with your eyes shut. You might get through without bumping into a tree but your chances aren't real good and it is painful if you do bump a tree. We are in the business of pain prevention first or pain relief last

We can supply you with a complete fuel system, flowed or non-flowed assembly, components or just advise. I guess the best reason to buy you fuel system from us is when you do, you get the correct parts. If you purchase used components from someone you need to know the parts are in good condition and the correct size or configuration for your application. For additional info call Ken.

Other literature available.
99253-03012 EZ Start valve
99253-85001 Small Block Chevy components
99253-85002 Big Block Chevy components
99253-85003 Ford 351C engine components
99253-85004 392 Chrysler components
99253-85005 426-440 Chrysler components
99253-53601 Blower Components
99253-80011 Cooling system components
99253-80001 Front Engine Dragster kits
99253-90001 Special Race Car tools
99253-01000 Info on the Drag Race School
99253-00001 Why flow my fuel system ?
99253-00002 How to Win in DYO
99253-00003 So you want to build your own dragster ?
99253-00004 What is the future of DYO ?
99253-00005 KLRC car features
99253-20001 Modified Dragster Prices
99253-30001 Modified Altered Prices
99253-40001 Modified Roadster Prices

Instructions:
99344-00001 Info on your new KLRC car.
99344-00010 Cooling your race car and electric water pump instructions
99344-01001 Supercharged drive hub installation instructions
99344-25950 Instructions for mounting legs on hat injection tool box
99344-26001 Small Block Chevy crank support installation instructions
99344-26002 Big Block Chevy crank support installation instructions
99344-99101 Speed Scoop installations instructions
99344-99201 Big Speed Scoop installations instructions
99344-99301 Pro Stock Scoop installations instructions