Info on your new KEN LOWE RACE CAR

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Things to know about your new KEN LOWE RACE CAR
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Specifications:
Set the front wheel toe in to 1/8".
Inflate front tires to 45 psi.
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Serial number information.
All KLRC cars are serial numbered. Semi finished, or un-welded cars do not get a chassis tag.

All mild steel cars begin with an X on the serial number. The next alpha is what the chassis is Dragster, Altered, Roadster, Special
XD is a dragster
XA is an altered
XR is a left hand steer 27 Roadster
XS is a special

All chrome moly chassis car begin with 180.
The next three digits represent the sequence of building.
The last numbers are the date code of building. Month and year.
Sample: 180-062-1097 Chrom moly car #62 built on Oct 97
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Rear wheel offset
We have a standard wheel offset based on standard cars. Unless your car has been made special your offsets are as below.

Flanged axle
KLRC flanged axle - standard wheel - 24" diff housing (24" bearing flange to flange) 15" rear rim is 3.5" back space / 4.5" bolt circle for flanged axle diff, 29" wheel flange to wheel flange. The 1/2" wheel nuts for the KLRC flanged axle diff torque to 60 foot pounds. Keep the threads clean and lubricated. The thread must protrude past the wheel face at least 1/2".

Small floater
KLRC small floater axle - standard wheel 15" rear rim is 4.0" back space / 5.0" bolt circle for small floater diff, 31 1/16" wheel flange to wheel flange. The 5/8" wheel nuts for the KLRC small floater torque to 100 foot pounds. Keep the threads clean and lubricated. The thread must protrude past the wheel face at least 5/8".

Large floater
KLRC large floater axle - standard wheel 16" rear rim is 4.0" back space / 5.5" bolt circle for large floater diff, 31 - 1/16" wheel flange to wheel flange.

BACK SPACE listed above is for the wheel "rim" only... the tire bulge can/will protrude out past this and still clear the chassis on a standard car. The 5/8" wheel nuts for the KLRC large floater torque to 100 foot pounds. Keep the threads clean and lubricated. Use anti-seize on the threads and the washer face of the aluminum wheel nuts. The thread must protrude past the wheel face at least 5/8".
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Starter clearance
Dragsters - Chevrolet powered Chevrolet engines have available 153 tooth and 168 tooth flywheels. Chassis with a vertical motor plate upright must use a 153 tooth flywheel.

Chassis with a angle motor plate upright must can use a 153 or 168 tooth flywheel. Because we keep our chassis narrow you must use a after market gear reduction starter with a Chevrolet we do keep these in stock. When using a 168 tooth flywheel this moves the starter out and in doing so the starter will contact this diagonal and the front of the starter will have to be ground to clear. Remove as little material as possible.

Dragsters - 351 Ford powered
There is now way that the stock Ford starter will fit in a dragster unless the car is very wide. We didn't feel it was good to make a car this wide just to clear the starter and we turned this negative into a positive. With the technology available with a Powerglide it made sense to use this transmission when ever possible but the Powerglide doesn't fit the back of a Ford. We make a special engine plate for 351 Ford powered cars that adapts the Powerglide to the engine and rotates the starter around to the other side and runs the starter upside down. Another big benefit is that now the entire right side of the engine is open for a full kick out pan that makes more horsepower.

Altered's - Chevrolet
Chevrolet engines have available 153 tooth and 168 tooth flywheels. Because we keep our chassis narrow you must use a after market gear reduction starter with a Chevrolet we do keep these in stock. When using a 168 tooth flywheel this moves the starter out and in doing so the starter will contact this diagonal and the front of the starter will have to be ground to clear. Remove as little material as possible. Altereds come as straight side and taper side. The straight side cars have more starter room than the taper side cars. Usually the taper side cars are meant to be used with remote starters.

Altered's - 351 Ford powered
There is now way that the stock Ford starter will fit in an altered unless the car is very wide. We didn't feel it was good to make a car this wide just to clear the starter and we turned this negative into a positive. With the technology available with a Powerglide it made sense to use this transmission when ever possible but the Powerglide doesn't fit the back of a Ford. We make a special engine plate for 351 Ford powered cars that adapts the Powerglide to the engine and rotates the starter around to the other side and runs the starter upside down. Another big benefit is that now the entire right side of the engine is open for a full kick out pan that makes more horsepower.
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Trailing your new car
Loading
The first 5 times you load or unload your new car is when you will do most of the damage to the body on the car. GO SLOW and practice make sure the bottom does not drag at any time. These cars are long and low and will find every lump around to run over. Watch letting the wheel drop off the edge of the asphalt in the pits. Sometimes just a drop of 2 inches will cause the car to drag on the body/chassis. Just a little practice and you will know what the limits are. Almost all of the body damage you will have will come from incidents in the pits or loading/unloading the car.

Support
The better you support your car in the trailer the longer your car will last. One trip in the trailer can be much harder on your new car than 1000 passes down the track. Dragsters and funny cars and altereds are not made to be driven down the road and this is just what you are doing when you transport them unsupported. I STRONGLY recommend that the following trailing procedures be followed.

Dragster chassis
Carry the car with the rear tires off the floor of the trailer. Jack up the car and put the start up stand under the rear cross member under the diff. This will provide a solid platform for the car to ride on. Race slicks often deflate and if you are carrying the car on the tires then when the rear tires deflate it will change how you have the car tied down and the car can come loose. Another benefit is that if some oil or fuel leaks from anywhere and gets on the floor the car then the rear tires will set in it. This is never good for the rear tires. Now you have a solid platform that the rear of the car is sitting on move forward and make something to support under the engine. If the car has a bell housing weld a tab to the bottom center of the bell housing and make a tripod or a quad pod with an adjustable tab on the top to bolt into this tab on the bottom of the bell housing. If the car doesn't have a bell housing make something that will lock on or under the motor plate. Lock here is a key word since if you don't secure it to the floor of the trailer or to the car it will move and get out from under the car and when it does it will cause some damage on it way loose and you don't want that done to you new car do you. Usually this will be enough to hold the car but if the chassis is extra flexible you will want to support it under the front of the engine as well. Remember it is all this heavy stuff that causes the chassis to flex and it is the excessive flex that will cause the chassis to fail. We can make a cradle to go under the car that will hold the chassis at the correct height to work with one of our start up stands. All of this works so much easier if this is all ordered with the car as we can do all this on a level chassis jig.

I have seen the air bags that are made and sold to go under the car for transporting. I feel that these are much better than nothing but I also feel that holding the car rigid to the non moving trailer floor will allow much less of the damaging and unwanted flex.

Tying the car down. 5 straps are needed.
I recommend that you use two friction straps to hold the front of the car at the bipod to the floor of the trailer. The floor tie downs in the front should be 24 inches apart and about 30" to 40" in front of the front axle center line. First pull these snug. Take two ratchet straps and cross tie the back down. The rear tie downs should be at least 30" apart (up to 40") and about 30 to 40 inches behind the rear axle center line. Use a cloth strap loop or wrap the cloth part of the tie down around the diff upright tube on the left side of the car. Use this ratchet tie to tie down to the trailer on the right side. Snug this ratchet. Repeat for the other side. Take the last strap and pass it over the bell housing or transmission and tie it down to the floor at the edge of the trailer about where the front of the engine is. This strap will pull down as well as pull forward. This is the strap that you want to have doing most of the forward pulling on the car. If you can't get it over the top of the bell housing or transmission then pass it through the chassis just over the bottom rail to the other side. Pull this one tight. Now go back and pull the back ones real tight. Now check the front ones and just pull them tight. Being friction straps you won't be able to get them real tight.

Altered/Funny Car chassis.
Carry the car with the rear tires off the floor of the trailer. Jack up the car and put the start up stand under the rear cross member under the diff. This will provide a solid platform for the car to ride on. Race slicks often deflate and if you are carrying the car on the tires then when the rear tires deflate it will change how you have the car tied down and the car can come loose. Another benefit is that if some oil or fuel leaks from anywhere and gets on the floor the car then the rear tires will set in it. This is never good for the rear tires. Now you have a solid platform that the rear of the car is sitting on move forward and make something to support under the engine. Making a wooden block to put under the engine will support the engine and support the car. This block must be held in place or it will walk out from under the car while travelling and possibly cause damage to the car when the car starts to bounce once the block is dislodged. Either pin the block to the floor or strap the block to the engine which ever you like.

Tying the car down. 5 straps are needed.
I recommend that you use two friction straps to hold the front of the car at the bipod to the floor of the trailer. The floor tie downs in the front should be 24 inches apart and about 30" to 40" in front of the front axle center line. First pull these snug. Take two ratchet straps and cross tie the back down. The rear tie downs should be at least 30" apart (up to 40") and about 30 to 40 inches behind the rear axle center line. Use a cloth strap loop or wrap the cloth part of the tie down around the diff upright tube on the left side of the car. Use this ratchet tie to tie down to the trailer on the right side. Snug this ratchet. Repeat for the other side. Take the last strap and pass it over the rear of the engine just in front of the bell housing tie it down to the floor at the edge of the trailer about where the front of the engine is. This strap will pull down as well as pull forward. This is the strap that you want to have doing most of the forward pulling on the car. If you can't get it over the top of the engine then pass it through the chassis just over the bottom rail to the other side. Pull this one tight. Now go back and pull the back ones real tight. Now check the front ones and just pull them tight. Being friction straps you won't be able to get them real tight.

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How to detail your new car.
You probably did not ask for your new car to be painted when you took delivery as most people want to personalize their car themselves. If you ordered your new car with the controls and accessories added then when you get it the hardware will be mounted already. There are a lot of brackets and fasteners that you have not seen before and as such once you remove them you might not remember how they were installed. You should get a camera and shoot a roll of film of the car with out the body on the car so you can use this as a reference. (Its good for the photo album as well). When you remove all the hardware just put the nuts and bolts back through the way they were on the car to assist you in remembering how it was.

Painting the chassis. Most people want to drill out the pop rivets holding the Dzus springs on so the springs don't get painted when you paint the chassis. Just drill them out with a 1/8" drill bit and save them for reinstallation. Sand the chassis to remove any thing that might cause a bad paint job. Wipe the car down with thinner. Primer is usually unnecessary. There is a bit of a trick in painting the round tubing on the chassis. I have included a set of instructions to assist you or your painter.

When you are painting round tubing the first mistake is to think of the tubing as having two sides, this side and the other side. If you think like this when you are painting it you will have dull dry spots and some spots will be missed. Think of the tubing as having 4 sides and you will stay out of trouble. Spray all four sides. I recommend using a Dupont Imron paint with hardener. Get some retarder to slow down the drying time. Most spray painters will try to talk you out of this as they are used to painting flat panels .. this is different. If you want shiny paint on the chassis the first part that you paint on the chassis must still be tacky when you finish the last part. If it is dry you will have dull spots.

Set the chassis up side down set on a set of trestles or saw horses about 900mm tall. Use some angle iron to set on the trestles to set the chassis on. This will create very small "nicks" in the bottom of the paint when the car is done. This is preferable to large scrape marks. Be sure the chassis is clean and ready to paint. I use a small touch up gun with the spray set on a narrow pattern and a small flexible hose. When you first start spraying don't try for gloss if you do you will get a lot of runs in the paint. Just spray the color on and get the coverage, we'll get the gloss later. First start spraying down inside the roll cage. Go through the whole car looking for the hardest places to paint and spray some color in the various nooks and crannies of the chassis. Now start at the front or the back and reach through the chassis to spray the inside of the other side. Once done on one side do this on the other side. Be sure to spray around as far under as possible. Now spray the top of the chassis as it lays on the trestles. (This would be the bottom of the car.) Turn the chassis over using a couple of pieces of tubing inserted in the rear chassis tubes and some one grabbing where the spindles mount. Get some mates to help you here. Its not very heavy but just a little awkward. Repeat the spray process through the chassis on both sides and now the top. Now you have the "color" on and now you want to get some gloss. Add some thinner to the paint and some more retarder to slow it down some more. Now go back and spray the whole chassis. You already know you have the color on so now concentrate on the gloss, put enough paint on to get the gloss. Be sure the gloss is the best on top of the roll cage as this is the part that gets the most attention. After you are done painting clean up the tools and leave the car alone to dry completely.

Windscreen
The windscreen is a poly carbonate material that is very tough but flexible and will not shatter. It is highly scratch resistant but will scratch. A good plastic cleaner and polish from Novus will keep it clear and bright. Never wipe off dry always use a damp cloth The screws that hold the windscreen in are 6-32 x 3/8" stainless button head fasteners. They use a 5/64" allen wrench and a 3/8" wrench to install or remove. The washers are 1/8" stainless and the nut is a 6-32 stainless nylon lock nut. Do not over tighten as they only just have to be snug. In most cases not all of the fasteners have been installed here because they all have to be removed when you paint it anyway and we are saving both of us some work. You should find a few extra bolts and nuts in the bag so you have some spares.

Body work
The body on your new KLRC dragster is a hand crafted aluminum body. All bodies are made with a sheet of plastic layered over the outside to protect it. When you pick up your car this plastic may or may not have been removed. It goes almost with out saying that you have to remove it before you paint the car. A light sand and a coat of primer is all that is needed to prepare for paint. After primer block sand to remove the high spots before painting. Some areas may require multiple coats of primer and sanding to achieve a smooth surface. Continue to prime and sand until smooth. When you paint the body and the body is assembled on the car with all the stripes and shading it will look good. For a finishing touch most detail painters will allow the stripes and color to go on the panels under the overlap as well this adds a finish touch to the car . Although it won't be seen unless you remove a body panel it will be seen when you do remove a panel. It is detail like this that gets noticed. Some people will paint the inside of the body as well to give it a finishing touch. A contrasting color to the outside looks nice or just white is very practical as it lightens up the inside of the car at night.(when you race). It is not recommended to paint the Dzus fasteners as the paint will chip off and look unattractive. Also if you have different colors or stripes going through them it makes it more difficult to get the correct fastener in the correct place. There are different length of Dzus fasteners but we have standardized on one length to make it easier to install the body in a hurry(like between rounds). If you have different length fasteners then it takes extra time to get the correct fastener in the correct hole. It is recommenced to have some extra fasteners in your tool box so if you lose or misplace one your can replace it quickly. This is another reason not to paint the fasteners. The Dzus fasteners used in the aluminum body is a flat top countersunk fastener part number 56135-11500. The Dzus fastener used on the fiberglass components is a domed head fastener part number 56135-13550.

Fuel tank
The fuel tank on your car has various ports in the tank. Unless ordered otherwise the tank comes with two -6 AN returns in the top left rear. If ordered with a drain port the port will be a -6 AN as well. The tank delivery is usually a 1 1/4" nipple which will connect directly to standard molded hose and to the KLRC pump inlet nipples. The AN fittings are sae o-ring seal thread not taper pipe (NPT) or straight pipe (BSW) Clean the tank before using. We recommend anodizing the tank for protection against alcohol corrosion. We also recommend draining and treating the fuel system with Tri-flow, on all alcohol powered cars, after each race. No exceptions. Usually the drain is located on the rear of the bottom of the tank so just raise the front of the car to get most of the fuel out. This could be done while the car is being loaded to take home after the race. It is a good idea to put some anti-seize lube on all the threads to help prevent corrosion.. This should be done after anodizing. Be sure to put some anti-seize on the cap threads as well.

Fuel systems
We offer a service of flowing and calibrating a fuel injection systems please call us for details

Wiring tips
If you have ordered your car with a battery recharge plug so you can recharge the battery without opening the car up then the recharge plug is located on the safety plate behind the driver(dragster). This should be wired into the battery side of the battery safety switch located on the crotch dash (usually)

Shifter gate latch adjustment
If you have a KLRC shifter mounted in your car there is an adjustment to regulate the spring tension on the sifter gate latch. The screw holding the gate latch and the torsion spring adjuster to the shifter is a 10-24 allen bolt with a lock nut on the back side. Loosen the lock nut with a 3/8" wrench and turn the 10-24 allen bolt with a 5/32 allen wrench to loosen the torsion spring adjuster. Twist the adjuster to suit the adjustment that you want or need and re tighten the allen bolt and lock nut.

Shifter cable mounting
On most dragsters the shifter cable is mounted to the trans shield with a quick disconnect clip. You can use on of our 53155-01000 QD clips. The transmission shifter lever is mounted with the lever going up to the cable. If you have ordered your new car with a KLRC shifter built into the car the shift lever on the trans must be pointed up If your trans does not come with a shift lever installed you can use our shift lever 32360-31125. Install the lever on the trans pointing straight up at 12 o'clock when the trans detent is in reverse. Install a 3/16" quick disconnect part number 53347-10100 on the cable and put the ball part of the disconnect on the top hole of the shift lever The standard cable mounting point on the shift lever will give you 9/16"(.56) of cable travel between each shift position. Adjust the length of the shifter arm on the transmission to suit this travel between detents on the shift arm. It is handy to have a quick disconnect linkage here as it will speed up the removal and reinstall of the transmission should you have to do this at the track some day, between rounds. We have available a quick disconnect ball joint for this application. The 3/16" mounting stud QD is part number 53347-10100 and the 1/4" mounting stud quick disconnect is 53347-10200 both will fit on the cable provided and will get the job done. Some customers will mount the neutral start switch on the trans cover and some will mount it in the drivers compartment by the shifter lever A small bracket and micro switch can be provided for this application. The bracket mounts between the shifter and the steel shifter mounting tabs on the chassis. The switch must wire between the starter button and the starter preventing the car to start in gear. The switch mounts so that the shifter must be in the "Park" position before the switch will depress and let electricity flow to through from the start switch to the starter Remote starter applications do not require this switch. If your application requires a Park start switch then you can use our park start parts listed below.

32090-31043 Powerglide shifter park start switch mount bracket
32090-31050 Powerglide shifter park start switch mount bracket spacer
32090-10001 Powerglide shifter park start switch

Alternator wiring
If you decide to install an alternator on your car then it is a good idea to install a switch on the throttle pedal to shut the alternator off when the engine is a wide open throttle. This way the battery is being charged only when the engine is not under full power and while under full power the engine is putting the maximum power to the ground. We have a switch and bracket assembly available to make this a bolt on job on all cars that have the adjust-a-rail pedal assemblies. This bracket can be used as a switch for the computer to signal wide open throttle as well. The switch part number 32090-10001 can be used for either the alternator or the computer.

Parachute cable information
Red parachute release cables come with a aluminum tip screwed to the jacket with small grub screws. These screws use a 1/16" allen wrench to tighten in place. Do not over tighten as it will crimp the jacket and make the cable difficult or impossible to pull to deploy the chute. The porpoise of this tip is to keep the wire cables inside the jacket from snagging on the parachute release loop. The cable must disappear inside the tip when the parachute release cable is fully pulled. If this cable does not disappear the parachute may not deploy. The release cable itself must have a rounded end to also prevent snagging.. Dual parachute release systems with the yellow or white jacket do not need the cable housing tip described above.

Things to be sure to do on your new car
*Set the toe in.to 1/8" to 3/16"
*Grease the front wheel bearings and be sure the split pin is installed.
*Clean out the fuel tank and any lines. It is a good idea to get the fuel tank
anodized so it is internally protected against the alcohol fuel.
*Be sure to bleed the brakes to remove all air from the lines and calipers.
*Double check all the bolts to be sure nothing is loose.
*Check the release on the parachute to see if the pilot will "pop" out.
*Make sure the seat belt lap belts are looped around the chassis rail and not around the retaining loops.
*Leave the battery disconnected while wiring the car. After the wiring is done check all the electrical functions with the battery cable not tight just in case you must remove it in a hurry.

How to set up your cooling system
KLRC recommends that you use a radiator on all cars that have water chambers in the block and cylinder heads. This will keep the engine at a constant temperature so you can have a stable tune up platform On DYO cars you want a consistent temperature so the car is more consistent. We can supply a small electric water pump that draws very little power and pumps enough water to keep the engine at operating temperature. Almost every car that we have built in the last 5 years has one of these water pumps. We have sold at least 40 of these water pumps for other customers to install on their cars. We also have water pump mounts for flat back mount to a safety plate or a clamp mount to mount the pump to a chassis rail. There is a trick electrical connection available for the power connection on the water pump. We can supply a compact light weight radiator to suit your car as well. The radiator has available a trick swing away mounting . The water (coolant) must enter the engine from the original water pump mounting holes. This will insure that the water flow will push the air up and out of the engine as air is difficult to push down with the water in the cooling system. The water should be pumped from the radiator to the front of the engine this will allow the water pump to be exposed to the coolest water in the system. Starting at the top front of the engine the water lines should go to the radiator inlet and from the radiator outlet to the water pump inlet and from the water pump outlet to the front of the engine. This will complete the loop in the cooling system. One note here is to place the fitting for the hose going back to the radiator as low as possible in the intake manifold cross over passage. This will insure a larger chamber for expansion above it. You want to keep this hose submerged with water as if it can draw air it will put air back into the system. On big block Chevrolet there is a 1/2" port on the front center of the manifold use this to return the water to the radiator. On small block Chevrolet you should add a port to the front of the manifold or use a large expansion chamber on top of the manifold On a Ford Cleveland engine the water exits the engine on the top of the block. A flange shaped like the thermostat housing with a 8" tall pipe welded on it with a radiator filler bung soldered on the top will make a good expansion chamber . Just add a fitting near the bottom front to allow the water to exit back to the radiator Again remember this fitting should never be allowed to draw air as it will put unwanted air back into the system. At KLRC we can provide you with any of these cooling system accessories On some engines it is probably a good idea to tap the rear corners of the intake manifold to add air bleed valves (petcocks) to let the air out of the top of the cylinder heads. In a normal passenger car the engine sits in the chassis at an angle with the front higher. Just look at a stock intake manifold and see the angle the carburetor mounts is. The carburetor is meant to mount level when the engine is in the car. This difference in angle between a stock car and a dragster or altered will trap air in the back of the engine and this will make hot spots in the engine. .Once all the connections are made fill the system with water and turn the pump on. As the water level drops add more water if the system wants to air lock use the vent petcock in the radiator to vent the trapped air in the radiator do this until the water starts to drop and you have to add more water to the system Continue to do this until the system is full. Once the water gets hot it will push some out into the vent tank.. When the engine goes cool it will draw air into the system and you will have to top off the cooling system before you race again. Capturing the water in the vent tank and putting it back into the engine will help you determine if you are loosing water some where else. Race car cooling systems are typically small and as such are not tolerant of air in the system be sure all the air is kept out of the system. One way is to plumb the water overflow from the engine to the vent tank to the bottom of the tank so when the system cools it will take the coolant back into the engine. You must use a recovery cap on the water fill if you do this. The KLRC vent tanks have two 1/8" NPT ports on the side and a 1/4" NPT drain on the bottom. Just add a 1/4 turn shut off valve for the drain. The mounting is usually done on the safety plate and most cars come with the safety plate drilled for the mounting just to bolt on. They are available in plain aluminum , black or gold anodized.

How to start your new car for the first time
*Check all fluid levels before you start the car.
Engine oil
Engine coolant (water)
Trans oil
Diff oil
Brake fluid
*The first time you start the car do so with the car jacked up on stands, do not leave the wheels on the ground
*While it is running check for fluid leaks
*Before you put the wheels on the ground make sure the car does everything it is supposed to ... you want no surprise.

What to do after the first pass on your new car
Take the time to put a wrench on EVERY nut and bolt on the car. Do this after every pass until you have checked the same bolt 5 times and nothing has moved. Now you only have to check it between races. Good maintenance comes down to attitude. If you approach the problem with the attitude that there is nothing wrong with the car then you are surprised when you do find something wrong because you weren't looking real hard. Presume there is something wrong with the car and you don't know what it is. Now go looking for it. If you find something wrong you found what you expected. If you look very hard and you can't find something wrong at least you gave it your best shot and now you know the car is ready to win and not lose because some parts fell off the car. This is a real rotten way to lose (if there is a good way).

Make a list or have someone make a list of every thing you will need before the next race. This includes batteries for the torch, electrical tape, shoe polish....anything. If you don't write it down you won remember.

Make a list or have someone make a list of everything you need to do on the car. Fix this oil leak, readjust the pedals, anything, if you don't write it down you will forget it.

Torque settings
Diff mount plate bolts 7/16"unf Grade 8........................65 ft lbs
Diff center mounting bolts 3/8"unf Grade 5 ..................30 ft lbs
Wheel mounting bolts 1/2"unf Grade 8 ..........................60 ft lbs
Wheel mounting bolts 5/8"unf Grade 8 ........................100 ft lbs
Parachute chassis mounting bolt 1/2" unf Grade 8.......70 ft lbs
Parachute chassis mounting bolt 7/16" unf Grade 8 ... 65 ft lbs
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Tools you may need for your new car
Engine storage stand. Stores an engine using your standard engine plates and front motor mounts. Just lift the engine out of the stand and install straight in to the chassis of your Ken Lowe Race Cars chassis. The stand is made out of tubular steel with the same dimensions as your chassis.

Maintenance and start up stand. This stand fits the rear of the chassis under the diff housing keeping the rear tires off the ground. Allows the engine to be maintenance and the car to be safely started. Can be used in the trailer for transporting the car as well. Comes in two heights for different tire diameters.

30-32 tire diameter
32.5-36 tire diameter
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Accessories for your new car
454 Chevrolet engine complete carb to oil pan
This is the perfect DYO engine. It has lots of grunt and as reliable as an 8 day clock. Engine has been bored, honed, and balanced, new high compression pistons, new rings, new bearings, new high volume oil pump. New Edelbrock intake manifold, new Holley 850 carburetor. New KLRC valve covers and new KLRC finned front timing cover. Crane race cam with new lifters, Crane roller rockers, new Rollmaster timing chain set, new Romac harmonic balancer, new roller rocker arms, new spark plug and plug leads, distributor, includes new flex plate to connect engine to converter.

Induction package
Includes scoop, scoop tray, scoop tray mounting kit, throttle cable
mounting and quick disconnect bracket. Select Speed Scoop, Big Speed Scoop or Pro Stock type scoop.

Powerglide "Shortie" Complete
Completely race prepped, includes 4.0 trans brake, race clutches, race hub, "shortie" tail shaft kit, billet input shaft.

Converter to suit engine combination above
28190-39480 Powerglide slip coupler half - male (long)

Diff center assembly 3.90 ratio, includes new gears, new bearings,
new seals, spool, pinion support and coupler (non supercharged)
14035-39031 31 spline
14035-39035 35 spline

Diff center assembly 4.10 ratio, includes new gears, new bearings,
new seals, spool, pinion support and coupler (non supercharged)
14035-41031 31 spline
14035-41035 35 spline
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Roll cage padding
The rules state that the roll cage must be padded where the helmet can come in contact with it. This means that the two back side bars and the two rear bars must be padded. Some people take cheesy foam rubber and tie wrap the rubber to the cage. This works and meets the rules but looks like an afterthought. We have really nice padded stitched wool covers that attach with velcro by wrapping around the bar and attaching to itself. They are scalloped to fit properly around the bottom of the bar where it meets the chassis and are cut square at the top for the best appearance. We carry them in stock and they only cost $ 125.00 for a complete set.

Wheelie bars (one wheel) fully adjustable. (3 bar)
Chrome-moly wheelie bar set with "Kryptonite" wheel. Includes 3 main tubes and all braces with slipper tubes to allow wheelie bars to be easily raised for travel over uneven surfaces in the pits. Has reinforced lower main rail pivot area with double wall.

Wheels
FRONT 2.25 x 17 Tires Front Runners (Goodyear) 300mph
2.5 x 17 Wheels Ken Lowe Race Cars front rims
2.5 x 17 Wheel kits(un assembled)
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Electrical accessories
Battery tray and battery box with battery mounting hardware fitted to chassis, includes all bolts

Battery cut-off switch and mounting to crotch dash

Battery cut-off switch and mounting to chassis with standard tab

Battery cable conduit and ports and clamps

Remote battery starter cable quick disconnect and mounting

Remote battery starter cable quick disconnect only

Tail light kit

83730-96301 Starter push button switch with rubber boot (installed)

83730-90029 Toggle switch 20 amp 12v spade term used for ignition, water or fuel pumps or lights includes rubber boot to keep water out (installed)

82383-70254 Starter motor Chevy gear reduction (Tilton type)

83063-00002 Battery for aux power (12N5-4B) fits battery box 83115-00002

83063-00003 Battery 12vdc small gel cell for controls fits battery box 83115-00003

83090-34012 Battery switch bracket Steel (weld or bolt on)

83090-34023 Battery switch bracket Steel (Alum bolt on)

83090-34256 Cable QD engine mount on fuel pump cover

83140-91112 Battery cable (Superflex #2)

83185-94363 Molded connector 2 wire assembly (Supermag coil type)

83190-05000 Electrical quick disconnect 50 amp (batt recharge)

83190-17500 Electrical quick disconnect 175 amp (Starter conn)

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Chassis cable and wire ports(small)

Chassis cable and wire ports(large)

Brake fluid line(stainless)from master cyl to rear of chassis

Spindle tow hooks (Dragster, Altered)

Tow eye (Altered or Funny Car)

JACK PAD (Under diff to jack car up on) with wheelie bar mounting bracket

Puke tank for Rear Engine Dragster

(includes aluminum tank and mounting material and labor)

Water vent tank (overflow) for Rear Engine Dragster
see below in cooling section.
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Cooling accessories
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40577-00002 Radiator (trans oil 13304 )
40577-00001 Radiator (water)

40578-10001 Radiator mounting for LOWE radiator on Rear Engine Dragster standard Super car configuration

40571-10001 Water pump 12VDC electric 3/4" connections

40155-81620 Water pump mounting clamps-flat back 1/4" hole mount 40155-81621 Water pump mounting clamps- 1 1/4" tube clamp (ea)

40246-00001 Chevrolet filler neck w/rad cap top

40246-00011 351C Ford filler neck w/rad cap top

40150-00007 Radiator cap 7 lb

40330-00001 Water neck housing Chevrolet/cast aluminum 1 1/4 neck

40330-00002 Water neck housing Chevrolet/cast aluminum -12 sae oring

40330-00012 Water neck housing 351C Ford/cast aluminum -12 sae oring

40251-10001 12" FAN electric 12vdc Plastic cooling fan with rear guard

Water overflow tanks (vent tanks) 700ml

40740-10001 Water overflow tank with mount flange, drain port, fill port, vent port

40740-10002 Water overflow tank with mount flange, drain port, fill port, vent port, polished

40740-10003 Water overflow tank with mount flange, drain port, fill port, vent port, anodized
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Oil filter remote mounts Oberg
Transdapt Dual
(includes mounting material and Labor but not the filter mounts )

Computer mounting tray with bolt on brackets or with 1/4 turn Dzus fasteners

58218-73500 Access door assembly, flush mount latch (non wing)

58218-73509 Access door assembly installation
(recesses the door flush with the outer body skin)
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Headers
Currently we have available a limited supply of Cyclone headers.
Small block Chevy zoomie style collector 1 7/8" primary with removable collector and primary extensions to change the length of the primaries. Small block headers have cylinder head port adapter spacers...while supplies last!